Several posts across a number of days…
I’ll deal with the Long Covid aspect of things first: I have just started the active part of a research trial intervention aimed at reducing symptoms. Because mine are largely dysautonomia and histamine related, I can’t see there being any great change, but that’s the primary reason for my going into the trial; to prove them wrong. Otherwise, I’m much the same as I usually am, with some fairly horrible insomnia at the moment, but my sister arrives tomorrow and I am delighted!
The mock-up has gone well. Each piece went together neatly. I think I mentioned before that the main differences to the wrapover and ones are a pacing background and the front of the bodice raises up, per the sensibility pattern. This is a good thing when you are restraining twins the size of mine.
I placed the side gussets (towards armsyce) first, after draping the thing against me in front of the mirror. Sure enough, the best side gusset was the one closest to the armsyce, so I cut accordingly. I then basted in the round, rather than rectangular, shaped gussets (these are slightly shorter than the ones to the centre of the chest for shaping). It was at this point I remembered just how much I hate putting gussets in, even basting, by hand. If you read about other costumers also complaining about this, it’s for REASONS. Another look in the mirror and yes, these are in the correct position. I then used the furthest gusset mark from that for the inner ones and, cursing again internally, I basted those in and held them up for a look in the mirror. They look pretty good, proving my theory that getting the positioning/placement of the gussets is key to this; after all, they won’t do what they’re meant to if they’re not where they need to be for a) the period look and b) your body shape. The gusset marks on the Sensibility Simplicity pattern might well be to take into account the fact they’re front lacing and will likely have a gap, but would never have worked out for me, given I am actually narrow of body, with wide spaced twins. It means I also have narrow shoulders.
Anyway, I made some notes as follows:
1) I need to move the central gussets over towards the middle point a bit more. The gap between gussets needs to be about 2 1/2 inches - again, this is about my shape and size.
2) On measuring the whole width of the garment, I need to redraft the gussets to overall reduce it and also use the 1/4 inch seam allowance rather than 1/2 originally drafted. At the moment, if I lose weight, the cups will be a little on the big side (this is why the whole idea of gathered cups is such an interesting prospect and I really want to have a go at these next for a pair of transitional stays). As I’m going to add in a drawstring along the top bodice bias, that will help overall, but the point of the chemise and other undergarments is to help corral the chest (and it wasn’t like regency ladies were doing anything other than sashay gracefully, rather than engaging in Georgian Era Cross Fit). Plus I have an idea for a fix for that, just in case.
The other thing is I’d already decided on a 4 inch lacing gap for these, precisely because I want to be able to use them as I am losing weight. As a general rule, my underbust might drop by 2-3 inches, so if I cut to accommodate that, this set will do me quite well for a range of sizes. I’ve tentatively marked this on my mock-up.
3) While I had already arranged for a bit more coverage at the armsyce edge, whilst holding the mock-up to me, I noticed I need to add a bit more here, 1cm in fact, shaping it in. This, once the cups and planned boning are in place, will significantly reduce side and gravity effects.
I have decided to use cotton drill - as it turns out left over from the wrap-over stays - as there are extant examples of this fabric, cutting all pieces except the front bodice pieces on the grain, with the top front section cut crosswise. The reason for that is to do with reduction in stretch and support (my brain), but I haven’t decided if I’ll cut the gussets on the bias or not. I suspect not, as I want to avoid stretch later and because I think there would be even more tears in gusset setting if I do.
I am still undecided on the lacing aspect and also on the straps: I do think it would be easier to just use inch wide twill tape for them in their entirety, but make some kind of fabric “sleeve” out of drill to sit over my shoulder where it’s likely to dig in. Not remotely period correct. I also have to contend with VERY narrow shoulders, so I always have to narrow straps etc. you should see my chemisette - it’s so very wide it doesn’t work (and is also in the pile of things to be altered to fit better).
Here follows some more photos, which may or may not be accompanied by explanations…
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