Thoughts on Altering Patterns for the Wheelchair user

 Look at me with another post within a few days of the last one!

Pattern pieces for the trousers are now cut out and I’ve been busy looking for more patterns online, both free and branded. While I absolutely need to learn to get over my jersey hump (and will probably enjoy it hugely when I do), I’m always still on the lookout for woven patterns, especially those that will need little to no alterations. I also look a lot at existing wheelchair user clothing and the mods that have been made there. Of course, building in a degree of adjustability is also a good idea. 

Adding additional seam allowance to the legs and using Velcro, zippers or snaps (something else I need to learn how to use) is pretty easy, in my opinion - that’s dependent on what you’re going to use and the degree of overlap required, if needed. With a zip, you’re basically finding the right length and the seam allowance doesn’t change. For waistbands, I am usually looking at specific design and that is the presence of a slanted pocket, which can be used to create a much wider, accessible opening by adjusting the design of the waistband itself. You’d want to create a back waistband with some elasticity/adjustability and a closure under the top,  which would come under the front waistband. My view is that should be mostly flat, to reduce bulk, but with elastication on either side, probably to about 1-2 inches. Under that would need to go a pretty decent closure (because of the stretch), I.e. really secure snaps, possibly a skirt metal closure or strong magnets. The front waistband would be attached to the front part of the pocket and the back waistband would be attached to the back part of the pocket. 

That said, I need to play with this a bit more, because ideally you want to keep the pocket parts in alignment at all times, so it might be that the front waistband ends are flat and there’s a small amount of elastic in the middle of it. I’m not sure. I have a couple of patterns with this kind of pocket design on to play around with on my lovely polycotton and I’ll keep you informed!

I’ve also been perusing the Simplicity sale. Last week I got some McCall’s patterns I was after on sale and this week it’s Simplicity’s turn and (you guessed it) there are some I’m after from them. PDFs, saved to my cloud and BOOM. Happy Cass! I’m currently looking for dresses and skirts with high-low hems - because these work better for wheelchair users.

I’m still not at the part of cutting out the fabric for my trousers; I still need to check if I’ve got the correct size of eyelets and also considering tidying my notions stash which is a mess and things are everywhere. I need to print and make up a couple of new bra patterns and some top ones I bought (some of which need alteration in terms of room over the bust and shoulders, or, in the case of bras placement of hardware, alignment and/or including adjustable straps and, in come cases, size modulation and those things also need a lot of mock-ups. I also want to take a pattern from one of my existing store-bought bralettes, because I think I could make some small changes that would make it even better (and I’m game to try and make it front fastening as well).

I’m off to look through a bunch of my patterns for about the millions time and commit to which fabrics I want to use for various things. Maybe. I’m really tired after DIY shenanigans upstairs regarding laminate installation and my poor nervous system is a bit over-stimulated at the moment.

More Adventures in Pattern Adaptation and Other Assorted Shenanigans

 Greetings, lone reader!

Further to my last post, my online fabric emporiums of choice were perused, patterns were decided upon and deep breaths were taken; pattern alteration in my place has to happen on the piece of hard floor between the rug and the door in the sitting room. It always ends up in contortion and soreness. I literally don’t have any other surface to work from and the dining table probably isn’t big enough for this either. 

I wanted an adapted pair of trousers, like a pair of jeans (but much lighter) for summer. When I bought the fabric I wasn’t 100% decided on whether I wanted denim-adjacent shorts or trousers, so I bought enough to make the trousers with a chunk left over (and I’ve got some remainder chambray from the failed playsuit of two years ago) so paperbag waist shorts for me (or the niece) could still be in my future.

Prior to taking over my floor space with pattern paper and shooing away inquisitive cats every two seconds, I took a number of measurements, because standing and sitting can be quite different - certainly any wheelchair user who has spent hours tugging up the back of trousers and shorts or trying to pull the legs of skirts down will tell you this! These measurements included:

-Seated waist to crotch - back and front (most people need to lower the front and raise the back, but this depends on your body shape)

- Various leg lengths; inner leg measurement, lateral (that’s the opposite one to the leg measurement) and front leg measurement from the hip crease - all seated

- Hips and waist measurements in the seated position. 

Because I have a tummy, I didn’t need to lower the front leg from crotch to waist, but I did need to add on about 1.5 inches in leg length overall and I also added an extra inch to the hem, to allow for fancy turn-up. I added 2.5 inches to the back leg waist to crotch measurement, using a pivot method, which makes sure the overall waist measurement doesn’t change (though that can be pleated or gathered into the waistband if needed. This is more than what I need to add for my standing back alteration, which needs a 1/2 to 3/4 inch wedge added to allow for the lumbar lordosis in my EDS scoliosis spine. If, when I add the waistband, I feel that’s too much I can always reduce it a little when trying it on before doing my final stitching. The other alterations I will be making are in relation to pocket placement; I won’t be adding the back rear ones and I’ll probably be playing around with some of the others, mostly in terms of position or alignment. For a mostly seated individual, hip/waist pockets, unless opening from the waistband, aren’t very accessible and the alignment of most thigh pockets in stores (even for a lot of so-called adaptive clothing) is still designed for those who are standing. 

The pattern I am using is McCalls 8458; it’s a unisex pattern that has all sizes from XS to XXL. It has three styles; shorts plus two versions of trousers. The fact the design has specifically added pockets to the calf level and double layered ones WITH ZIPS at that was what drew me to it. It looks to be a really easy pattern to make up and it was a very easy pattern alteration compared to the usual shenanigans I encounter with the top half ones (increase for weapons of mass distraction, lower apex point, allow for kyphosis, remember you have a stupidly short body AND narrow shoulders).

Today’s part of chronic sewing was cutting out the new pattern pieces - I always trace off the original then add my changes. I also then label them with the pattern number, name of piece and date I made them. The only other thing I need to check is whether or not I’ve actually got eyelets of the correct size, plus buy a drawstring for the waist. The eyelets can easily be replaces with buttonholes if necessary. I won’t be cutting out the fabric, let alone attempt to start sewing (which will likely end up NOT the same as the instructions because of moving said pockets - which will then need to be re-marked on the new pattern pieces for location) for a good while. I’m expecting a bit of a crash following the visit of a friend overnight this past weekend, plus I’ve got meetings this week and another blog post to write and I need to do some research for it. 

In other positive sewing news, I’ve not only found some accessible bra patterns, but I’ve found a really good few that I can adapt to being front closure as well. I have found some of the hardware I wanted and have been chatting with a friend about buying some cheap versions that will never fit me so I can scrap them for parts (parts I cannot find online). I also have been emailing various retailers back and forth about the importance of adaptive garments in a range of sizes, including really large. There will likely be more emailing between myself and various pattern designers, as well as fabric retailers, in relation to modifications. I really just want some cheap fabrics to make some toiles at this point to fit. I’ve decided on a sports bra of some description, a comfort cross-over and a slightly more formal one. Cashmerette and Porcelynne have some really good patterns, although Lilypa designs have some excellent ones in a range of sizes that look like they could be easily modified to front closure - and some patterns are free! I’ve also got some comfortable pull on bras (they’re just not easy to get into) that I can look at for ideas as well. I have even managed to get hold of a proper tank with shelf bra - that comes in fuller cup sizes. Overall, my main considerations are:

-front (reversed) adjustable straps, either standard or using Velcro (remembering to try and use the clear plastic fittings where possible as we are a bunch more likely to need X-rays and MRIs)

- front closure, either magnet or hook, remembering to include something to try and stop the hook(s) from coming undone. Snaps are also a consideration, with perhaps a little Velcro to secure

- remembering that all of these designs need to include some kind of mini loops to aid closing the things and their placement. 

There are endless possibilities and I’ve now got patterns to base these on. With any luck, I’ll have something that fits and meets my needs soon. Glamorise and Springrose may work for a lot of people, but the former has too many hooks for bad hand days and the latter doesn’t really cater for my size. Lots of lovely people also kept trying to direct me to a company I already know, but their flexible sized bras don’t work for me and my shoulders are often too unstable for me to get the pull on styles on and off, particularly when my skin is a bit damp. And sometimes I am too tired to deal with the wrestling myself in and out. I’ll keep you posted on the design process of all three, but I think the crossover style will be first as it is likely going to be the easiest to figure out the mods for and a style that significantly avoids unaboob sweating. 

There may be another post today about clothing items and patterns to watch out for if you’re a wheelchair user, but I also do have to work on this other blog post as I now only have two weeks really to get the draft done of my part. 

Plans for the podcast have stalled a little as my co-host has a lot going on at the moment, but we are still committed to this and I’ve found an independent designer to commission for a logo and possibly other work down the line. I know a lot of people are using AI for merch designs and the like, but I am not a confident user.

Bye for now 

PS I have also created a character that may end up getting used in an ongoing series by AI and I YouTube channel. Yes, the series is set in a magical world created by someone whose views I don’t support and who I don’t particularly care for, however the creator is sound. So sound I chose to support him on Patreon while he was demonetised (and he’s just got that back) so he could continue his work. He’s now built and inclusive community of supporters in the Writers’ Room and we also have a Wiki! We love being included, involved in character design, sometimes plot as well and generally being chaos agents across all age groups. Some lovely people created my character’s image and it’s getting good feedback as it’s also disabled. I’ll let you know how this pans out! 

Adventures in Crafting and Post-Covid Long Covid

 So…along with the inevitable recovery from the second bout of Covid (it’s horrendous. I thought it was bad before I had had covid again and now I’m back to three hours of unconsciousness if I decide to shower. Joy. Send an email or read a document? Ditto). Today, I’m feeling knocked out because I decided to stitch up the playsuit from the vintage pattern and… I might have forgotten to check my new measurements (though I recently checked them and they were as they usually are). It DOES fit, only the pockets (macgyvered from another pattern) are pulling and muggins here decided to completely finish the seams BEFORE checking the fit (as I could, reasonably, have reduced the side seam allowance to maybe 3/8 without affecting the overall fit). I can get them on. I can sit down without the seams straining. I do need to work on this pattern again, especially if I want to sew it up in anything more robust for winter and, in all honesty, it might work really well in a substantially thick knit without much stretch (not that I know how to sew knits. I am scared of them and I don’t have a properly serviced and working serger). It was a worthwhile experiment, but I’m going to tinker with the pattern again - which is Simplicity S9792 vintage from Jiffy range. The pockets came from a tunic/dress McCalls pattern as it didn’t have internal pockets with the pattern. I just have to find buttons, sew on suitable sized snaps (which I don’t have) or skirt closures (which I like and do have) but safety pins will do for now and if it comes to it, I’ll just sew buttons right through all the layers of fabric. My zip installation….worked. It’s been a while since I put one in and it kind of shows a bit. I am pretty sure I was using the zipper foot - again, I should have checked. I also need to hem the legs and work on the back legs pattern a bit.

I do like this pattern, not least because the zip fastening makes it really easy to get into, which is importantly if you’re disabled. The shoulder design is also useful if you’re expecting to have to spend time on IV/post surgery and with chronic conditions, opting to buy patterns which are easily adjustable to these considerations is important. Same with being a wheelchair user. I’ve found the Cashmerette advice in the book Adjusting the Curve to be really helpful with this. Increasing the seat (aka over the backside and up to the waist) is really important (I was already doing this with my sway back, but now I need to increase that more), but I’m also now having to adjust for the overhang at the front (something I think was MAJORLY affecting the playsuit at around the hips), adding leg length to account for sitting in a wheelchair and so on.

In other news, my experimental Knickerbockers worked really well and I’m very pleased with them! I’m toying with the idea of not bothering with the whole closure on the leg thing, though it did work, and just using elastic and coming up with some kind of fake button tab thing. Though it does work and looks cool! 

Anyway, I’m off back to check the fit of this thing as I wait for a drain engineer to come out on an emergency and hem the legs. Later! 

Well, it’s been a while

 To be honest, I had not realised it’s been almost a year 😲. I’ve been busy with long Covid advocacy and it’s exhausted me to the point of relapse. And I have Covid again. Somehow. I’m so cross, as I’m Covid cautious. One of my cats had to be put to sleep, but I have welcomed two ginger ninjas who Archie is happy to be around.

We have had a change of government, after one of the worst winters & springs in terms of politics. I’m not hopeful about the new government, but at least they’re not Tory. Same rhetoric on disabled and chronically ill. And the disabled & chronically ill with Long Covid are currently not well enough to challenge this effectively. Not with everything else we have to do.

I’m currently having to buy a whole lot of new splints and shoppers. With my pension being 1/3 of my former income, even having full ADP and a bit of ESA, it’s not really enough. I also need to fund a power add-on for my manual wheelchair (what I need isn’t funded under motability). I can’t just get cheap splints. I’m managing with a new thumb one, but it will need a decent new one soon, plus I need two to deal with my dropped foot and spasms issues.

I do have a cleaner back. This is a huge relief. I’ve at least got a clean home twice a month. I am still waiting to see a social worker (nearly 18 months at this point) for a personal assistant assessment. I’ve also been diagnosed with sleep apnoea secondary to Covid in 2020, but the waiting list to be seen for APAP is long. PoTS is an ongoing issue. My local trust still refuse to permit prescription of medications for MCAS, even with a new letter from one of their own recommending it. Speaking of which, I now have to get my records updated, as you need them for benefits stuff. I absolutely hate this - I don’t understand why the agencies can’t access these records themselves.

Due to all the work I’ve been doing for the Scottish Covid Inquiry, I’ve not been able to do anything much else at all. Craft took a back seat, my other LC projects also did too. I’ve taken part in some research projects and studies, but social media is a low priority and recently my hand tremors and cognitive dysfunction started again. That’s frustrating beyond belief.

I did shorten some old PJ pants into shorts, not that the weather is good enough to use them, with two more sitting waiting to be done. I have cut out pattern pieces for planned makes (the fabric has arrived and been washed). Then I realised the big ironing board is in the cupboard behind the new cat litter tray… 🤦🏻‍♀️.

So that’s me. I’ll write a post on how I manage symptoms as a lone person on bad days soon. When I feel a bit better and I have more energy.

So….in about another year then? 🤣. TTFN 

Crafting and Other (Long Covid) Updates

 Seeing as I FINALLY got down and cut out my knickerbockers, following a MacGyvering of two Simplicity patterns, I thought I’d drop in a post to update on various crafting shenanigans. 

As I can’t remember (read: didn’t bother to check the last post), over the last few weeks, I’ve finished my trans inclusive pride flag blanket replacement, knitted (frogged and re knitted) a rainbow dog jumper for a neighbour (from blanket leftovers), a cardigan in black, red and grey for my GP’s new baby (also from said leftover yarn) and started both a Sirdar jumper in Jewelspun (which I thought had wool in it, which will teach me to check properly) and my first pair of socks of the season in Cascade heritage solid and print. Why both? Because this tunic sweater is the biggest garment project I’ve knitted, I know it’s sometimes a good plan to knit something smaller, so you finish things. I set myself at least ten rows of the tunic sweater every day to knit, which is probably about 5cm. I also like knitting small things. Especially socks. I do have a sock yarn problem, so it’s probably good I’m keen on knitting them, huh? 

In terms of socks, I am aiming this year to get at least a pair finished by the end of the month and the Cascade Heritage print is possibly the thinnest yarn I’ve ever knitted with, but it’s incredibly soft. The colours reminded me of the Hocus Pocus witches, just in a more pastel colourway, without being actually pastel. I’m using a sage solid for the rib, heel and toe and it looks lovely. Given this is how what I like to do, I’ll almost certainly get a second pair out of this yarn (like I did with my Christmas socks for myself last year - someone was most pleased to get a pair of socks big enough for their feet!). The pattern I’m using is the one I knitted up in a lovely, now discontinued, cashmere sock wool by Debbie Bliss and, I regret to say, I fiddled with the pattern, resulting in a pair of socks just a smidge too small for me, so they were also passed along to a grateful recipient. Hand knit cashmere socks, with a lace stripe down each sock! She was pleased, but so am I to be finally able to knit my own pair!

I weakened and bought some Opal sock yarn yesterday in a 6ply, which I’m either going to knit slipper socks out of or just some socks. I’ve got some excellent patterns for thicker socks, so I’m looking forwards to using up the lovely pure wool I used to knit the greyhound jumpers over the summer, along with some slipper soles from Regia and Bergere De France - yes, I do want some new slipper socks.

I had a LOT of sock yarn leftover from last year in some prints and block solids and I then decided to buy yet more sock yarn - as of today, four of the six balls have arrived from Lovecrafts and Hobbii (though one colour way IS going to almost match my tunic sweater when it’s finished, so…). Look, I have a problem. A sock yarn problem. I know I do. But I’ve got patterns and a determination to not buy any more now. Promise. 

As I’m now not well enough to work, I am enjoying knitting and pottering. I’m slowly managing to sort through things a little at a time and I know that once I finish the sitting room I’ll feel much better, same with the kitchen. I recently was gifted an air fryer, which I’m very excited about.

Now, if you’ll excuse me, these socks aren’t going to knit themselves, nor is the tunic sweater. Sewing needs to wait for another day…

In terms of Long Covid, things are much the same; waiting for appointments, having others, waiting to hear about decisions on benefits, though I am now in the Support Group for ESA, which means they think I’m not well enough. Just another two and the pension to go. Knowing I’m relatively financially secure will make a big difference to my anxiety levels. However I am still facing selling my home. Sigh. 

Do take care.

Life on Hold. Again. And Again. And Again.

 I think the absolute worst thing about living with Long Covid is the fact that it is so unpredictable and that you cannot catch a break; I distrust the days where I feel I have energy. This is because even if I pace myself well, chances are I am cruising for a crash. I don’t know why. I probably should have put off an impromptu visit yesterday, given I had a LOOOONG set of MRI scans on Monday, but hey ho, it is what it is.

This means progress on that short cloak and re-patterning the regency short stays (even fan-lacing the new ones) has halted, as has the rejig of the petticoat, as well as the ongoing plan for a new regency dress (that’s more 1790s-1805 in design. Sort of). 

I have done a LOT of knitting though. I’ve finished two cardigans for cousins’s babies (cursing the fact there’s now ANOTHER one in the same family line. Not really, but I feel I must knit), knitted up a sweater which, despite my following instructions, does NOT look like it will fit a 9 y.o. - which led to the rushed buying of some expensive wool (in the sale!) to knit up a pair of FANTASTIC fox socks, complete with ears and bad embroidery for said 9 y.o. This meant that I could finally get on and knit myself a pair of winter thick socks ahead of the impending sad event that is the disposal of my entire sock wardrobe due to the sodding fungal nail infection that took hold following Covid. Oh yes. Everything’s gotta go and I get to disinfect my shoes every time as well. New slippers, everything. I also completed a pair of leggings for myself, forgetting my rule of using a smaller set of needles to handle my crap tension, so I may undo the top and reknit several rows with a) double rib and b) needles at least two sizes smaller. They’re being held up with two garters made of very cheap elastic and it’s now a long term plan to design my own pair and I have IDEAS. 

So this morning I won’t be doing my singing thing, as that leaves me tired and I also need to do SOMETHING with our Change petition, which is a campaign for key workers who caught covid, developing Long Covid (as a result of their jobs) get compensation. The recent news release of the IIAC makes it really hard for people to actually get Industrial Injury Benefit, unfortunately, plus a lot of us are getting turned down for pensions too. 

I am trying not to despair. I’m looking at the towel I want to get finished that’s been sat on a needle for two years. I’m planning to do the 13 row pattern repeat, one block a day. If I’m lucky, this means it will be finished next week. 

So, couple of phone calls to make, explaining I can’t accommodate either the costs or impact of travel and can we please do either video or more local appointments, pretty please, with cherries on top. 

Sigh. 

Peace, out.

PS I cannot add photos, due to there not being enough disk space. Sorry and I’ll try and post the, on the blog later on.