Thoughts on Altering Patterns for the Wheelchair user

 Look at me with another post within a few days of the last one!

Pattern pieces for the trousers are now cut out and I’ve been busy looking for more patterns online, both free and branded. While I absolutely need to learn to get over my jersey hump (and will probably enjoy it hugely when I do), I’m always still on the lookout for woven patterns, especially those that will need little to no alterations. I also look a lot at existing wheelchair user clothing and the mods that have been made there. Of course, building in a degree of adjustability is also a good idea. 

Adding additional seam allowance to the legs and using Velcro, zippers or snaps (something else I need to learn how to use) is pretty easy, in my opinion - that’s dependent on what you’re going to use and the degree of overlap required, if needed. With a zip, you’re basically finding the right length and the seam allowance doesn’t change. For waistbands, I am usually looking at specific design and that is the presence of a slanted pocket, which can be used to create a much wider, accessible opening by adjusting the design of the waistband itself. You’d want to create a back waistband with some elasticity/adjustability and a closure under the top,  which would come under the front waistband. My view is that should be mostly flat, to reduce bulk, but with elastication on either side, probably to about 1-2 inches. Under that would need to go a pretty decent closure (because of the stretch), I.e. really secure snaps, possibly a skirt metal closure or strong magnets. The front waistband would be attached to the front part of the pocket and the back waistband would be attached to the back part of the pocket. 

That said, I need to play with this a bit more, because ideally you want to keep the pocket parts in alignment at all times, so it might be that the front waistband ends are flat and there’s a small amount of elastic in the middle of it. I’m not sure. I have a couple of patterns with this kind of pocket design on to play around with on my lovely polycotton and I’ll keep you informed!

I’ve also been perusing the Simplicity sale. Last week I got some McCall’s patterns I was after on sale and this week it’s Simplicity’s turn and (you guessed it) there are some I’m after from them. PDFs, saved to my cloud and BOOM. Happy Cass! I’m currently looking for dresses and skirts with high-low hems - because these work better for wheelchair users.

I’m still not at the part of cutting out the fabric for my trousers; I still need to check if I’ve got the correct size of eyelets and also considering tidying my notions stash which is a mess and things are everywhere. I need to print and make up a couple of new bra patterns and some top ones I bought (some of which need alteration in terms of room over the bust and shoulders, or, in the case of bras placement of hardware, alignment and/or including adjustable straps and, in come cases, size modulation and those things also need a lot of mock-ups. I also want to take a pattern from one of my existing store-bought bralettes, because I think I could make some small changes that would make it even better (and I’m game to try and make it front fastening as well).

I’m off to look through a bunch of my patterns for about the millions time and commit to which fabrics I want to use for various things. Maybe. I’m really tired after DIY shenanigans upstairs regarding laminate installation and my poor nervous system is a bit over-stimulated at the moment.

More Adventures in Pattern Adaptation and Other Assorted Shenanigans

 Greetings, lone reader!

Further to my last post, my online fabric emporiums of choice were perused, patterns were decided upon and deep breaths were taken; pattern alteration in my place has to happen on the piece of hard floor between the rug and the door in the sitting room. It always ends up in contortion and soreness. I literally don’t have any other surface to work from and the dining table probably isn’t big enough for this either. 

I wanted an adapted pair of trousers, like a pair of jeans (but much lighter) for summer. When I bought the fabric I wasn’t 100% decided on whether I wanted denim-adjacent shorts or trousers, so I bought enough to make the trousers with a chunk left over (and I’ve got some remainder chambray from the failed playsuit of two years ago) so paperbag waist shorts for me (or the niece) could still be in my future.

Prior to taking over my floor space with pattern paper and shooing away inquisitive cats every two seconds, I took a number of measurements, because standing and sitting can be quite different - certainly any wheelchair user who has spent hours tugging up the back of trousers and shorts or trying to pull the legs of skirts down will tell you this! These measurements included:

-Seated waist to crotch - back and front (most people need to lower the front and raise the back, but this depends on your body shape)

- Various leg lengths; inner leg measurement, lateral (that’s the opposite one to the leg measurement) and front leg measurement from the hip crease - all seated

- Hips and waist measurements in the seated position. 

Because I have a tummy, I didn’t need to lower the front leg from crotch to waist, but I did need to add on about 1.5 inches in leg length overall and I also added an extra inch to the hem, to allow for fancy turn-up. I added 2.5 inches to the back leg waist to crotch measurement, using a pivot method, which makes sure the overall waist measurement doesn’t change (though that can be pleated or gathered into the waistband if needed. This is more than what I need to add for my standing back alteration, which needs a 1/2 to 3/4 inch wedge added to allow for the lumbar lordosis in my EDS scoliosis spine. If, when I add the waistband, I feel that’s too much I can always reduce it a little when trying it on before doing my final stitching. The other alterations I will be making are in relation to pocket placement; I won’t be adding the back rear ones and I’ll probably be playing around with some of the others, mostly in terms of position or alignment. For a mostly seated individual, hip/waist pockets, unless opening from the waistband, aren’t very accessible and the alignment of most thigh pockets in stores (even for a lot of so-called adaptive clothing) is still designed for those who are standing. 

The pattern I am using is McCalls 8458; it’s a unisex pattern that has all sizes from XS to XXL. It has three styles; shorts plus two versions of trousers. The fact the design has specifically added pockets to the calf level and double layered ones WITH ZIPS at that was what drew me to it. It looks to be a really easy pattern to make up and it was a very easy pattern alteration compared to the usual shenanigans I encounter with the top half ones (increase for weapons of mass distraction, lower apex point, allow for kyphosis, remember you have a stupidly short body AND narrow shoulders).

Today’s part of chronic sewing was cutting out the new pattern pieces - I always trace off the original then add my changes. I also then label them with the pattern number, name of piece and date I made them. The only other thing I need to check is whether or not I’ve actually got eyelets of the correct size, plus buy a drawstring for the waist. The eyelets can easily be replaces with buttonholes if necessary. I won’t be cutting out the fabric, let alone attempt to start sewing (which will likely end up NOT the same as the instructions because of moving said pockets - which will then need to be re-marked on the new pattern pieces for location) for a good while. I’m expecting a bit of a crash following the visit of a friend overnight this past weekend, plus I’ve got meetings this week and another blog post to write and I need to do some research for it. 

In other positive sewing news, I’ve not only found some accessible bra patterns, but I’ve found a really good few that I can adapt to being front closure as well. I have found some of the hardware I wanted and have been chatting with a friend about buying some cheap versions that will never fit me so I can scrap them for parts (parts I cannot find online). I also have been emailing various retailers back and forth about the importance of adaptive garments in a range of sizes, including really large. There will likely be more emailing between myself and various pattern designers, as well as fabric retailers, in relation to modifications. I really just want some cheap fabrics to make some toiles at this point to fit. I’ve decided on a sports bra of some description, a comfort cross-over and a slightly more formal one. Cashmerette and Porcelynne have some really good patterns, although Lilypa designs have some excellent ones in a range of sizes that look like they could be easily modified to front closure - and some patterns are free! I’ve also got some comfortable pull on bras (they’re just not easy to get into) that I can look at for ideas as well. I have even managed to get hold of a proper tank with shelf bra - that comes in fuller cup sizes. Overall, my main considerations are:

-front (reversed) adjustable straps, either standard or using Velcro (remembering to try and use the clear plastic fittings where possible as we are a bunch more likely to need X-rays and MRIs)

- front closure, either magnet or hook, remembering to include something to try and stop the hook(s) from coming undone. Snaps are also a consideration, with perhaps a little Velcro to secure

- remembering that all of these designs need to include some kind of mini loops to aid closing the things and their placement. 

There are endless possibilities and I’ve now got patterns to base these on. With any luck, I’ll have something that fits and meets my needs soon. Glamorise and Springrose may work for a lot of people, but the former has too many hooks for bad hand days and the latter doesn’t really cater for my size. Lots of lovely people also kept trying to direct me to a company I already know, but their flexible sized bras don’t work for me and my shoulders are often too unstable for me to get the pull on styles on and off, particularly when my skin is a bit damp. And sometimes I am too tired to deal with the wrestling myself in and out. I’ll keep you posted on the design process of all three, but I think the crossover style will be first as it is likely going to be the easiest to figure out the mods for and a style that significantly avoids unaboob sweating. 

There may be another post today about clothing items and patterns to watch out for if you’re a wheelchair user, but I also do have to work on this other blog post as I now only have two weeks really to get the draft done of my part. 

Plans for the podcast have stalled a little as my co-host has a lot going on at the moment, but we are still committed to this and I’ve found an independent designer to commission for a logo and possibly other work down the line. I know a lot of people are using AI for merch designs and the like, but I am not a confident user.

Bye for now 

PS I have also created a character that may end up getting used in an ongoing series by AI and I YouTube channel. Yes, the series is set in a magical world created by someone whose views I don’t support and who I don’t particularly care for, however the creator is sound. So sound I chose to support him on Patreon while he was demonetised (and he’s just got that back) so he could continue his work. He’s now built and inclusive community of supporters in the Writers’ Room and we also have a Wiki! We love being included, involved in character design, sometimes plot as well and generally being chaos agents across all age groups. Some lovely people created my character’s image and it’s getting good feedback as it’s also disabled. I’ll let you know how this pans out!